How to Install Vinyl Fencing

Vinyl fencing is a popular, low-maintenance alternative to traditional wood fencing. The following information is provided to help you learn how to install vinyl fencing which has become a popular alternative to traditional wood pickets or rails. Though it costs more at the outset, vinyl fencing pays for itself because it lasts longer and requires almost no maintenance. Installing any fence is a two-person job that requires multiple days to complete. Concrete that holds the posts needs time to harden before the installation can be finished. Take plenty of time at the beginning to plan the location of the fence — you will avoid costly mistakes that might be difficult to undo.

Tools & Materials

Before planning and purchasing your fence materials, ask yourself these questions:

• What will be the function of the fence?

• What style will best accomplish this function?

• What style and material will blend with my landscaping and the architecture of my home?

Vinyl fencing is a relatively new, maintenance-free type of fencing. It is available in forms similar to both wood panel and rail fencing. Vinyl fencing is not subject to rot, fading or other effects of weather and time as wood fencing can be. Vinyl is a good choice for an attractive, easily-maintained fence system.

Before proceeding, a few preliminary steps are in order. Some are simply good ideas, some are necessary:

• Discuss your plans with any neighbors whose property lies along your proposed fence line.

• Make sure your fence will be on your property.

• Check for easements in your deed. An easement is a right-of-way granted to another property owner or utility company which may limit the design and location of your fence.

• Confirm the location of underground utilities with local providers before you dig. Before you begin any excavation you need to call and check for underground utilities. The North America One Call Referral Service at 1-888-258-0808 connects you to a national directory of utility companies.

• Check local zoning laws which may regulate the size and placement of your fence. If you live in an historic district or a subdivision, check with your neighborhood association before proceeding with your plans.

• Contact your local building inspector to obtain the information you need for the depth, diameter and shape of your footings. Some codes may require that the bottom of a footing be wider than the top.

• Apply for the proper building permit as directed by local code.

What is Available?

• Privacy — This style provides the most solid barrier. It is commonly used around swimming pools and between property lines. It may also be used to conceal unsightly areas or to hide a major roadway from view. These fences are generally 4'-6' tall, and they may include decorative latticework on the top.

• Picket — This is ideal for keeping children and/or pets in the yard and defining boundaries while achieving a distinctive look and aesthetic appeal. These fences are generally shorter, 4' tall or less, and do not completely block the surrounding view.

• Shadowbox — This style uses alternating panels across the back and front to give the fence the same look on both sides. This is an ideal "neighborly" fence style since neither person gets the "bad" view. These fences are generally taller, usually around 6'. They have the look of a privacy fence but also allow more air circulation.

Fence Terminology

• Posts include the 4x4's which are set firmly into the ground and provide stability for the fence.

• Main posts or terminal posts are found at the corners of the fence and on either side of all gates. They are usually set deep into the ground for support.

• Line posts are any posts between the main posts. They provide stability and attachment points for fence panels.

• Rails are the horizontal supports running between posts. On preassembled fence panels, the rails are attached near the top and bottom (and sometimes across the middle).

• Bay is the space between the posts. In simple styles, such as split-rail fences, there are only rails in each bay. Other types of fences have a solid infill (like privacy fences) or more loosely spaced infill (like picket fences).

• Gate is the door which provides entry into and out of a fenced area. All containment fences should have gates. They can be mounted to swing both in or out, or in one direction only.

Site Layout

• Take time to lay out the fence carefully. An incorrect measurement now could result in problems later. Use graph paper to make the drawing easier. Make provisions for the widths of the fence panels and gates so you will not end up with odd-sized bays that can complicate installation. To plan your fence:

• Stake out your fence line from beginning to end, including corners and any gates.

• Tie a string tautly between corner post locations. This will define the line along which the line posts will be placed.

• Be sure to measure your panels before performing the next steps.

• Using the same measurement as the length of your panels, stake out the line post locations. Measure on center from each corner post along the layout lines:

• For 6' fence panels, use 5"x5" posts placed 73 1/4" apart on center.

• For 8' panels, use 4"x4" posts placed 96" apart on center.

• Mark each post location with a stake. Ensure that the stakes are touching the layout string so the posts will be in line. Remember to take gates into account at this stage.

• Installing a vinyl fence on a slope requires the use of the "step method" — the fence gradually "steps" up the slope so that each bay section is the same length and the rails are level instead of parallel to the slope.

• When staking out line posts on a slope for a step method installation, you will need a true horizontal measurement for post placement. Do not measure parallel to the ground slope. To obtain the proper layout, do the following:

• Measure from the previous stake while holding the tape horizontally.

• Use a 2x4 to extend from the proper tape measurement to the ground to locate the placement of the stake. Properly executed, the tape will form a right angle with the 2x4.

• Continue this measuring method for the rest of the slope until the ground levels out.

Digging Postholes

• Backfill each hole with gravel to allow for drainage.

• Using a posthole digger or power auger, dig the holes 10" in diameter. The depth will depend on soil conditions in your area. Consult your local building authorities for specific regulations. A good rule of thumb is to put 1/3 of the post in the ground.

• Dig the hole 6" deeper than needed to allow for gravel backfill before the hole is filled with concrete.

• Main (terminal) and gate posts should be set 6" deeper for extra strength. Keep the height of your fence panels in mind when digging your postholes.

• Backfill each hole with 6" of gravel to drain water away from the bottom of the post.

Setting Posts

• Good idea: Lay out the fence as a "dry fit" before digging holes for the line posts. This can prevent the need for major adjustments later.

• After the gravel is added, fill the hole with concrete. A quick-setting variety can be used to speed the process, but be sure to follow instructions for how long the concrete should set.

• Tap the hollow post into the concrete so the concrete fills the center portion of the post in the hole. Tap the post down to the top of the gravel. Plumb and level every post. Overfill holes at the top. Using a trowel, slope the concrete away from the post to prevent water from collecting around it.

• Install end and corner main posts first. Tie a string between these posts along the fence line. This will establish a reference so you can make sure the line posts are set in line. Check each post to make sure it is plumb using a level on two adjacent sides.

• Before the concrete sets, check plumb and alignment again and make any necessary adjustments.

• Allow the concrete to set according to the manufacturer's instructions before installing the fence panels.

Attaching Panels

• Attach the rail brackets to the fence posts using screws recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. The brackets and screws will differ depending on the type of fence being installed.

• When all the rail hangers are attached to the fence posts, slide the panels into the brackets and use screws to fasten the panels to the hangers.

Installing Accessories

• Glue the tops to the posts using vinyl adhesive. Place adhesive around the inside of the top piece where it makes contact with the post. Push down and hold for 10 seconds. Wipe off any excess adhesive immediately. 

Installing a Gate

• The opening for a gate between two posts must be 1 1/4" wider than the gate itself. Leave 5/8" of space on each side between the gate and the posts to allow for the hardware clearance. The bottom of the gate should align with the bottom of the fence.

• Insert two 2x4s rated for outdoor use inside each gate post. This will provide added strength for the attachment of gate hardware. If you are using 4"x4" gate posts, rip 1/2" off the wide side of the 2x4s. Make the wood level with the top of the post.

• All gate backrails contain wood inserts placed 8" in from the end of the rail. These allow hinges or latches to be attached to the gate. Pre-drill the holes for the hardware on the post and the gate.

• Use hinge lag screws to mount the hinge to the gate backrail. Use latch screws to mount the latch to the post.

You're Done! Obviously, this is just an overview of installing your new vinyl fence. It is intended to give you perspective before you start the project. As with any DIY project, give yourself plenty of time and have sufficient help when you begin. If this seems more than you want to take on, we suggest you locate a local fence installer. Although more expensive than doing it yourself, in the long run you will have a quality installation and a new fence system you will be proud of! If you enjoy Do-It-Yourself Project, this will be fun and rewarding project! For specific questions on Duramax fence installations please call Customer Service at 1-800-987-4337.